Despite its marked conservative bent, Madrid is perhaps the least classical of Europe’s great capitals. The late 19th century Spanish Restoration had kept the city on the sidelines of history, where it developed its devout and remote image, but the end of Franco’s dictatorship put a sudden stop to decades of abstinence as the movida’s frenzy of creativity and freedom put the city firmly back on the map. From the high-density gay-liberal vitality of Chueca and youthful dynamism of Malasaña, to Serrano’s sedate retro-glam and the cutting edge creativity of Lavapiés, Madrid has a vast range of diversion on offer. We’ve stayed up late to assemble a short-list of the best of this, with photos and maps throughout.