Berlin is probably the most happening city in Europe today and certainly the most fascinating of the continent’s major capitals. Though undoubtedly a more mainstream city than it was two decades ago, its unique history has left it with a diverse set of neighbourhoods, architecture and people. In the former East, Mitte has dramatically shifted from socialist decay to the embodiment of contemporary Berlin, boasting innovative retail and a vibrant art and café scene. The city’s alternative-creative edge has spilled from Kreuzberg into Neukölln. In the West, Charlottenburg and Schöneberg exude the air of prosperous 20th century West Germany. We’ve set out to chart the best of what this unparalleled city has to offer, with photography and maps throughout.