Undeterred by its relatively modest size and location below sea level, Amsterdam has been able to establish itself as one of Europe’s most important cities. Although it is still much associated with hordes of rain-gear clad tourists looking to catch a glimpse of its freewheeling ways, efforts have been made to reign in the excesses. The De Wallen red-light district has seen a new wave of civic life, including the emergence of boutiques and design outlets. Amsterdam has also recently discovered its northern borough on the opposite bank of the IJ lake, where warehouses provide new space for artists and creative types. We’ve set out to discover the best that this maritime city has to offer, from the classic highlights of the canal belt to the neighbourhood treasures beyond.