As well as a whiff of sola – from the clothes bundles or, a more likely hypothesis, from the shop of your favourite Grand Marché trader, Abdoulaye Walaye – you pick up a stronger smell, of Mananas, a kind of eau de toilette sold in Lebanese shops and often sprinkled on corpses. No one would ever use Mananas in Pointe-Noire, people would think they were a ghost or that they worked in the cemetery or the morgue. You don’t recall quite when your clothes began to smell like this. But you do know you haven’t changed your outfit for close on five days now, which means these are the clothes you were buried in…